CHEESY BEAN, MISO & LEEK GRATIN

It's getting colder by the day as we are heading towards winter, which means melted cheese in recipes is basically mandatory!

I absolutely adored this twist on a vegetable and cheese sauce bake - the addition of miso and butter beans makes this a filling, wonderfully flavourful and veg packed main that I have been thinking of ever since I rustled up on a rainy Saturday evening.

This is proper comfort cooking that still delivers on the nutrients and I for one cannot wait to make it again! 

SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS

• 400g leeks 
• 1x head of broccoli, chopped into florets
• 400ml vegetable stock (made using ½ stock pot or cube)
• 35g butter
• 35g plain flour
• 120g mature cheddar, grated
• 3 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked
• 1½ tbsp white miso paste 
• 1 x 400g tin cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
• 1 x 400g tin butter beans, rinsed and drained

TO SERVE

Mixed salad and crusty bread

METHOD

• Preheat the oven to 220°C
• Chop the leeks into 3cm-thick rounds. 
• Pour the stock into a medium saucepan and bring to the boil. 
• Add the leeks and simmer for 5 minutes, until the leeks are just tender. 
• Lift them out of the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside, reserving the stock.
• In another saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat. 
• Add the flour and cook out for 2 minutes until it starts to smell biscuity. 
• Gradually pour in the reserved stock, stirring until you have a smooth paste before adding more. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 1-2 minutes until thickened. 
• Add 80g of the cheddar along with the thyme and miso paste. 
• Stir well to combine.
• Tip the beans into a gratin dish along with the blanched leeks. 
• Pour the sauce over the top and sprinkle with the remaining cheddar. 
• Bake for 17-20 minutes until golden and bubbling. 
• Serve with salad and crusty bread.

MONKFISH RAGOUT PASTA

Post fashion week month I was after a fancy pasta dish that wouldn't be too much hassle to rustle up on a Friday night but would still feel like a real treat.

I am big fan of the firm texture and unique taste of monkfish and loved the idea of adding it to a traditional Italian tomato ragout type sauce and here the sauce is really the star of the pasta dish.

I tweaked the original recipe by adding some black olives and fresh parsley for another texture and added depth of flavour and I have to say the final result felt authentic, rustic and very delicious.

 For 2 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 400g paccheri
• 300 grams monkfish fillet
• 250 ml (1 cup) peeled tomatoes, pureed in the food processor or blender
• 60 ml (1/4 cup) dry white wine
• 60 ml (1/4 cup) milk
• 1 garlic clove
• 2 Tbsp olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbsp minced fresh flat leaf parsley
• 150g pitted black olives

METHOD

• Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. 
• Peel the garlic clove and slice it thickly. 
• Add the garlic to the hot oil. 
• Tilt the pan, and cook the garlic until it is golden. 
• Then discard the garlic. 
• This way, you end up with garlic-infused oil.
• Add the monkfish and cook over high heat for about 1 minute per side. The monkfish should stay raw on the inside.
• Take the monkfish out of the pan and reserve.
• Deglaze the pan with the white wine.
• Use a wooden spatula to scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen the browned bits stuck to the pan from browning the fish.
• Add the tomato and the milk. 
• Stir well. 
• Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. 
• Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. 
• Stir regularly.
• Dice the fish, and season it with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
• Add the juices that will have leaked from the fish to the sauce.
• While the sauce is simmering, bring a pot of water to a boil. 
• When the water boils, add salt and the pasta. 
• Set the timer for the time indicated for al dente on the package.About 5 minutes before the pasta will be ready, the tomato sauce should be nice and thick.
• It should in fact be slightly thicker than you want it to be, because the fish will release some liquid when it is cooked in the sauce.
• Add the fish to the sauce and turn off the heat.
• Stir to coat the fish with the sauce, sprinkle with parsley and enjoy!

HARISSA SALMON WITH COURGETTE, HERB & FETA PASTA SALAD

I cannot wait to get into proper cooking again now that shows are over but I did manage to make this delightful salmon dish a few weeks ago.

Salmon gets topped with harissa before being roasted in the oven and gets accompanied with the most wonderful room temperature pasta salad made out of sautéed courgette slices, which get tossed in lots of her herbs, vinegar and oil, feta and pasta with the final result topped with flaked almonds.

It's a fresh, filling and wonderful fragrant supper that will make you go for seconds.

SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS

• 2 salmon fillets
• 2 tsp harissa
• 350g trofie pasta
• 1 courgette
• Extra-virgin olive oil, to fry and drizzle
• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
• Finely grated zest 1 lemon, plus half its juice
• ¼ bunch dill, finely chopped
• ¼ bunch mint, finely chopped
• 30g pitted black olives, sliced
• 40g feta
• 1 tbsp toasted flaked almonds

METHOD

• Heat the oven to 180°C fan/gas 6 and bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. 
• Put the salmon fillets in a small baking dish and spread the harissa over them. 
• Put the salmon in the oven and the orzo in the water and cook both for 10 minutes.
• Meanwhile, put a large frying pan over a high heat and finely slice the courgette into thin discs. 
• Add a dash of oil to the pan followed by the courgettes and, in batches, cook for a few minutes on each side until golden and lightly charred. 
• Once all the courgettes are cooked, put them in a bowl with the vinegar, lemon zest and half the juice and herbs. 
• Season with salt and give them a good mix, then set aside for at least 10 minutes.
• Once the trofie is cooked, drain it and run it under cold water to prevent it sticking together. 
• Toss the trofie with the courgettes, then add the olives and crumble in the feta. 
• Transfer to a serving platter, top with the salmon and sprinkle with the toasted almonds and a final drizzle of oil.

GOCHUJANG, HONEY & GARLIC SALMON WITH TAHINI NOODLES

Intricate cooking is off the table at the moment with fashion week on but I am still trying to get some weekend kitchen time in and I simply adore this quick to rustle up, fusion-y salmon and noodle dish that is packed full of flavour, quickly rustled up and packed full of good-for-you ingredients.  

SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS

• 1/2 cup soy sauce
• 1/3 cup honey
• 1 tablespoon gochujang (Korean chilli paste) 
• 1 tablespoon grated ginger
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 salmon filets
• 2 tablespoons oil
• Purple sprouting brocolli
• Salt


NOODLES

• 1 package soba noodles
• 1/3 cup soy sauce
• 1/4 cup tahini
• 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon grated ginger
• Red pepper flakes
• 4 salad onions, sliced
• Toasted sesame seeds
• Pickled ginger for serving

METHOD

• Preheat the oven to 200c. 
• In a square baking dish, whisk together the soy sauce, honey, Gochujang, ginger, and garlic. 
• Add the salmon and let sit. 
• On a baking tray, toss together the broccoli, olive oil, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. 
• Bake for 20 minutes. 
• Meanwhile, make the noodles. 
• Bring a pot of water to a boil, scoop out 1/4 cup hot water, reserve. 
• Cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain. 
• In a glass jar or measuring cup, whisk together the soy sauce, tahini, sesame oil, ginger, chili, and a 1/4 cup hot water until combined. 
• Toss the noodles with the sauce.
• 5Put the salmon in the oven and bake for 10-15 minutes, until the salmon reaches desired doneness. Remove the broccoli, spoon the sauce over the salmon. 
• Switch the oven to broil. Broil the salmon until crisping on top and the sauce is thickening. 
• Divide the noodles between bowls. 
• Top with salmon, broccoli, green onions, pickled ginger, and sesame seeds. 
• Spoon any remaining sauce over the salmon.
• ENJOY!

CRAB PAPPARDELLE ARRABBIATA WITH SAMPHIRE

I am on the never ending quest for the perfect crab pasta and this spicy crab arrabbiata with homemade chilli and garlic oil and samphire may just be my new favourite!

There is a little prep involved but the end result is undoubtedly a restaurant worthy pasta dish!

SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS

• 500g pappardelle

CONFIT CHILLI OIL

• 5 long red chillies
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 cloves garlic
• 250ml olive oil
• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar

ARRABBIATA SAUCE

• 4 tbsp confit chilli oil, (see recipe above)
• ½ a clove garlic
, finely sliced
• 1 tsp dried chilli flakes
• 2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted
• 1 tbsp confit chilli and garlic, (see recipe above)
• 400g cherry tomatoes, halved, plus extra to serve
• 1 tbsp butter
• 100g white crabmeat
• 100g samphire
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• ½ a small bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

METHOD

• Prick the chillies with a knife and put in a small pan with the bay leaves and garlic. 
• Cover with olive oil and cook gently over a low heat for 45 minutes or until they’re softened. 
• Cool. 
• Pick out the chillies and remove the skins and stalks, and scrape out the seeds. 
• Chop then put in a jar with the garlic, red wine vinegar and the infused oil.
• Heat 4 tbsp of the confit oil in a frying pan and cook the fresh garlic, dried chilli flakes and fennel seeds for 3 minutes, then add the confit chilli and garlic bits, and cook for another 2 minutes. 
• Add the tomatoes and simmer gently for 1 hour. 
• Blend the sauce with a stick blender until smooth (keep the rest of the chilli oil in the fridge to use later).
• When you’re ready to serve, cook the pasta in a large pan of lightly salted boiling water following pack instructions. 
• Drain, reserving some of the cooking water.
• Add the butter, crabmeat, samphire and lemon juice to the sauce with some seasoning, then add the pasta and toss really well, adding a little of the cooking water to loosen if needed. 
• Stir through the parsley, divide between two plates and scatter over a few more halved tomatoes, to serve.

GRILLED SESAME MACKEREL WITH ORANGE & BEETROOT SALAD

My grilled mackerel obsession continues and this is the perfect light yet super fragrant supper with the most wonderfully unexpected flavour combinations to eat while this Indian summer lasts.

A new favourite for when it's too hot to eat anything too heavy!!

SERVES 2 

INGREDIENTS

• 2 oranges
• 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• About 5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 tsp Dijon mustard
• 1 x 250g pack cooked natural beetroot, diced
• 1 x 400g tin butter beans, drained and rinsed
• 1 x 20g pack dill, finely chopped
• 2 x fresh mackerel fillets
• 50g sesame seeds
• 1 x 80g pack watercress

METHOD

• First cut the skin and pith off the oranges and cut out the segments with a small, sharp knife, over a bowl to catch any juice. 
• Set the segments aside and squeeze the juice from the pithy flesh remaining. 
• Whisk the balsamic vinegar, 3 tablespoons of olive oil and 1 teaspoon of mustard into the juice, then stir in the beetroot, butter beans and most of the dill.
• Score the mackerel skin diagonally in a couple of places, then brush the skin with the remaining 2 teaspoons mustard and some seasoning. 
• Spread the sesame seeds on a plate, and press the mackerel, mustardy- skin-side down, in the seeds to coat lightly. 
• Set aside on a plate
• Heat a couple of teaspoons of oil in a nonstick frying pan over a medium heat. 
• Place the mackerel fillets skin-side down and cook for 2 minutes until the sesame seeds are golden, then turn and cook for another 1-2 minutes until cooked through. 
• Transfer to a plate, wipe out the pan with kitchen paper, refresh the oil and cook the remaining fillets in the same way.
• To serve, place a mackerel fillet skin-up on 2 plates. 
• Place a pile of watercress to the side, mix in the orange segments and any juice, then spoon the dressed beetroot and beans over the salad, and scatter over a little more dill.
• ENJOY!

CURRIED TOMATO, MAYO & CAPER SANDWICH

Hear me out on this one because the idea of a sandwich solely based around the humble tomato, combined with mayo, may sound weird but is actually a thing in the Southern states of America and here the twist of adding capers and using sandwich bread fried in curry powder in oil elevates the final dish into something quite spectacular and sophisticated I really didn't expect!

The key here is to invest in the best of the late summer tomatoes - watery supermarket toms won't do the job here, you won't regret it - really this may just be my new favourite sandwich!

SERVES 1

INGREDIENTS

• 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• ½ tsp. curry powder
• 2 thick slices white sourdough bread
• 2 Tbsp. goodmayonnaise
• 2–3 thick heirloom or beefsteak tomato slices
• Salt, freshly ground pepper
• 1 (heaping) tsp. drained capers

METHOD

• Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium. 
• Add curry powder and whisk to evenly disperse in oil. 
• Fry bread until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. 
• Transfer to a plate.
• Spread 1 Tbsp. mayonnaise over 1 side of fried bread slices. 
• Top a slice with tomato slices, season with salt and pepper, and scatter capers over. 
• Close sandwich; cut in half AND ENJOY!

MARSEILLE INSPIRED MACKEREL & FENNEL PASTA

I was really inspired by the gutsy and diverse flavour I got to experience in Marseille and it has definitely influenced my cooking since I have been back in not so hot or sunny London.

Mackerel appears to be a particularly popular fish over there, and to be quite honest it had really never been on my radar to cook with/ but that all changed while in Marseille where I had it at least twice for dinner and this rather unglamorous fish was transformed into something quite special when combined with the right ingredients!

In this dish the mackerel, pan fried for a maximum crispy skin, is paired with more Mediterranean ingredients - capers, fennel and olives and the most moorish anchovy breadcrumbs, to make the most flavourful, light and sophisticated pasta supper.

Perfect to keep summer alive on your plate just a little bit longer and a new favourite.

SERVES 2

INGRDIENTS

• 5 tbsp olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
• 2 heads fennel, tough outer layer removed, cut into 5mm slices, fronds reserved
• 500g spaghetti
• ½ tsp dried chilli
• 20 black olives, stoned and halved
• 1 ½ tbsp capers
• 4 tbsp vermouth or white wine (optional)
• Salt and black pepper
• 2 sustainably sourced mackerel (or plaice) fillets 
• 1 handful parsley leaves, roughly chopped
• Lemon wedges, to serve

FOR THE ANCHOVY BREADCRUMBS

• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly bashed
• 4 anchovy fillets
• 60g breadcrumbs

METHOD

• First, make the breadcrumbs. 
• In a frying pan, warm the oil and garlic over a medium-low heat for about three minutes, until the garlic begins to colour and turn wrinkly. 
• Turn the heat up to medium and add the anchovies, squishing them into the pan. 
• Add the breadcrumbs, tossing them in the anchovy oil until they’re nicely coated and beginning to colour – three to four minutes. 
• Once they’re a nice toasty colour, take off the heat and leave to cool in the pan.
• Put a large frying pan on a medium heat and add three tablespoons of oil. 
• Add the garlic and fennel, and cook gently until they begin to soften – eight to 10 minutes. 
• Meanwhile, put a pan of salted water on to boil and cook the pasta.
• Once the fennel is soft and the garlic fragrant, add the chilli, olives, capers and white wine. 
• Let it bubble away for a minute or two and reduce to a sauce, season, then take off the heat until the pasta is ready.
• Once the pasta is al dente, drain, reserving half a cup of the cooking liquid. 
• Transfer the pasta to the pan with the fennel sauce, with a few splashes of its liquid, and put on a very low heat.
• Put the frying pan on a high heat. After a few minutes, add a tablespoon of oil, season the mackerel fillets well and fry, skin side down first, for two to three minutes on each side, until just done.
• Stir the parsley and any fennel fronds into the pasta, then transfer to plates. 
• Top each plate with a mackerel fillet, sprinkle over the anchovy breadcrumbs and serve with a wedge of lemon.

MARSEILLE - THE FOODIE GUIDE

There are two very different foodie experiences one can have in Marseille.

There is the pretty basic, mildly overpriced, mainly seafood based tourist culinary experience - mostly consisting of eating €60 a head bouillabaisse in a packed restaurant with a view over the port… and then there is the much more local, young, experimental and dare I say very “hipster friendly” culinary scene (made possible by the relatively low rents) with an emphasis on small plates, natural wine and imaginative menus.

You can hazard a guess which experience I was aiming for, and my god was the food (with a little research and reservation making done beforehand) SO good and inspiring, I would go as far as saying that Marseille easily beats what Paris and London currently have to offer.

It is also very affordable to eat out in Marseille, particularly when considering the standard of wine and food you get, and even more so when compared to London, and overall everywhere we went was also extremely veggie / pescatarian friendly which I really did not expect having faced some rather questionable non meaty on previous visits to Paris.

We only had 7 days in Marseille, which of course meant I barely scratched the surface of the amazing foodie offering there, but I do hope you forgo the tourist experience and try any of the utterly fantastic places to eat featured below - I have been left both inspired and wanting to go back to try more.

One last tip before we get into the food - make sure you RESERVE ahead of your trip. The hippest restaurants in town do not have large covers and are popular with locals and in the know visitors alike…I reserved most dinners two weeks before our arrival and it really paid off.


FOR DINNER

LIMMAT 

Limmat was probably my foodie highlight of the entire trip which is quite funny as this was our chosen dinner spot for night 1 in Marseille.

Why was it my favourite? Somehow the combo of unique location, the restaurant is bang in the middle of the steep, graffitied steps running from Cours Julien towards Noailles, a few outside table nestled in the midst of it all from which you get the most wonderful view onto the city, creative, perfectly executed cooking inspired by Marseille’s melting pot of cultures and incredible good value for money just made Limmat feel really special. 

Add to that little touches like antique glassware and mismatching plates, wonderful service and possibly the best pavlova, served with fresh strawberries, of my life as fitting finish to the meal and you truly get an unforgettable dining experience.

Plates are seasonal, to be shared and veggie/fish focused (I adored the smoked mackerel with labne, lentil salad, fennel and coriander and the gorgeous ricotta cake with Parmesan, basil and almond pesto, courgettes and toasted almonds) and I could have honestly eaten my way through the entire menu. 

Make sure to call ahead to secure a table because Limmat is truly what a great dining out experience should be all about and Marseille is very lucky to have this proper gem of a restaurant.


LE BEC DU COQ

Le Bec Du Coq's only downside (if you can even call it that) is the lack of outside dining space BUT it makes up for that in more than one way and was another favourite dinner spot on the trip. 

There is a fine selection of well priced small plates with a great emphasis on seasonal, veggie + pescatarian friendly options that are bursting with flavours, we had the most incredible homemade taramasalata dip and smoky babaganoush served with a moorish pizza dough crust, and there is also a fantastic natural wine list.

The dining room feels cosy yet understatedly chic, almost like you have had the luck to be invited to the coolest dinner party in town, and our host for the evening only added to this intimate atmosphere with wonderful yet not overbearing service.

I would love to call Le Bec Du Coq my local back in London and the Marseillais who packed the restaurant on a Tuesday night must agree, in fact I would highly recommend reserving (which can be done online) as at least 10 people were turned away when they chanced a walk in spot.

In fact Le Bec Du Coq is all you want from a restaurant, - amazing food, great atmosphere and not an annoying tourist in sight. 

CIEL 

Ciel came highly recommended by a couple of friends who had been in Marseille earlier this year. 

It is a bit more mainstream and “instagrammable” than my other favourites on this trip, but with a wonderful rooftop view over Marseille and a great pizza menu I was more than happy to give it a go and I was not disappointed.

Though it was actually too windy to sit in the outdoor rooftop space (we are talking gale force winds that evening), there is an equally gorgeous glass walled inside space on the roof that gives you amazing views no matter the weather and allowed us to see the most gorgeous sunset whilst we tucked into our pizza. 

And I got to say the food at Ciel was actually surprisingly good and authentic - in fact the truffle pizza I had, with freshly shaved truffle on top and the most stretchy and perfectly airy dough base, was quite possibly the best truffle pizza I have ever had, and I've had my fair share.

Starters were excellent, wine was cheap and service was efficient yet friendly, and despite initial reservations that Ciel could have been style and rooftop access over substance CIEL actually really won me over and I cannot at all fault the food and whole dining experience!

Highly recommended for a dressy Friday dinner as a first carby stop before hitting the town for more drinks, make sure to reserve a table online beforehand though, this place is popular with locals and clued up tourists alike.


TOÏA 

Toïa was the only restaurant we sort of stumbled across by chance whilst in Marseille and I am so happy we did! I had originally booked another natural wine bar / restaurant but on a second look realised that their speciality was all things meaty. 

However, as I was scrolling through their tagged pictures on instagram (the best way to get a real sense of what a restaurant is dishing up) I came across a post that also had Toïa tagged in it and I very much liked what I saw!

So on a whim and on our last full day in Marseille I managed to book a table online and we headed to Toïa and I am really rather glad we took that risk because Toïa was undoubtedly the hidden culinary gem of the trip and served us some spectacular food.

It’s located right by the side of the port where the big cruise liners arrive and away from the tourist overrun main promenade. There’s plenty of outside seating as well as indoor space, and though not instantly full when we arrived by the end of our dinner the outside space was packed with big groups of locals celebrating and eating, plus a few fortunate tourists that had stumbled across Toïa on their search for dinner. 

Everything on the menu, more modern European cooking which beautifully managed to encapsulate the melting pot of cuisine in Marseille - A bit French, a bit Mediterranean, a little bit Arabic, sounded AMAZING and as it was our last night we went ALL out.

We shared freshly caught, tiny, deep fried fish with aioli and the most insane creamy burrata with tomato sauce that I have to recreate asap at home.

The mains, divided into a beef, fish and veggie options change seasonally and were simply outstanding on this occasion. I had the most juicy tuna steak, perfectly raw in the middle still, with grilled aubergine and spiced couscous while my mum had the bavette steak with chimchurri sauce and potatoes, which she basically inhaled and has spoken about ever since.

Even better starters were no more than 10 euros and mains all under 28 euros, and we washed it all down with the most stunning bottle of buttery Chardonnay. 

Maybe it felt even more special because it was our last night in Marseilles, but our dinner at Toïa was one that will stay with me fore a long time and showed me that being a little bit spontaneous from time to time does have its benefits.


LA PASSARELLE

La Passarelle gets a mention not because it served particularly outstanding food, I had a tasty fish dish that wasn’t exactly cheap, but because it is a decent dining option if you want a really lovely outside space near the port and right by down town central Marseille but away from the masses.

It has a gorgeous covered terrace with ferry lights dotted around and chequered table clothes, and a super calm and tranquil vibe even though it is literally 3 mins from the hustle and bustle of the touristy food mile of Marseille.


FOR BREAKFAST / BRUNCH

DEÏA

We mainly stuck to French style breakfasts of baguette or pastries while in Marseille, but on our last day we were after something a little more substantial, knowing we had our long return journeys ahead of us.

I had come across Deïa on some list of the best brunch spots in Marseille and as it was only 8 minutes walk from our AIRBNB and our suitcases weren’t exactly light off we went.

Deïa is quite reminiscent of the many Antipodean inspired cafes you can find in London, and had ample inside and outside seating but was pretty packed even on a Wednesday morning.

The menu is full of creative and perfectly executed brunch dishes. There is brioche French toast with poached peaches and vanilla cream, toasted croissants with pastrami and creme fraiche, fluffy pancakes with apricots, tonka bean mascarpone creme, and the rather outstanding savoury French toast with cream cheese, poached egg, fresh herb and hazelnut sauce, aubergine mousse, toasted hazelnuts and smoked salmon which is what I went for.

This was top level brunch fare that would hold its own even when compared with some of London’s most popular spots, and left us super full and super satisfied. 

Not exactly a typical French concept or restaurant but absolutely hitting the spot if you are after a delicious brunch that will fuel for a long day of Marseille activities.


FOR DRINKS

CAFÉ DE L'ABBAYE 

Café de l'Abbaye was our absolute favourite spot for an after dinner drink with the most spectacular view of the sun setting over Marseille. 

It is absolutely not fancy - more a tiny hole in the wall sort of bar with locals congregating outside holding  their beverage, discussing their days and taking the last rays of sunshines of the day. 

Drinks are cheap and served in plastic cups  and really I wouldn’t want it any other way. 

A must visit whilst in Marseille to absorb the vibrant energy this city offers first hand.

FOR ICE CREAM

LOULOU MONSIEUR GLACE 

Right by Corniche Malmousque, LOULOU MONSIEUR GLACE is a super chic and modern ice cream parlour and their gelato was INCRED! Cannot recommend enough and quite sad that I only tried here on my last day.